Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Face Off: 2012 Yelland and Papps Devote Roussanne and Second Take Roussanne

''From Yelland and Papps comes two different takes on 2012 Barossa Valley Roussanne:  The Devote and the Second Take. Three weeks ago, RedtoBrown put both bottles through their paces in a good old ‘Face-Off:’

2012 Yelland and Papps Devote Roussanne
Brown: Fruit taken from 10 year old vines, barrel fermented, matured in French oak (22% new) and racked from barrel.
A nose with subtle, understated aromas of apple and citrus with an oak-derived nuttiness. Texturally quite creamy and nutty - a sprinkle of cashew and almonds.
Relatively restrained fruit (white nectarine, citrus and a touch of pear) is framed by subtly spiced nougat oak.  The finish includes pleasant lemon-pith notes, more spice and clean acidity.
Should flesh out with age, and has a solid frame for when the wine develops further in the cellar. Versatile food wine – with rich seafood, or chicken cooked several ways. 91pts

Red: This is currently quite an austere, dry white wine that would go well with some fresh seafood. There is some intensity to the citrus fruit and a touch of creaminess, but apart from that, this Roussanne is keeping everything close to its chest at the moment. The structure, however, is undoubtedly there.   The oak spice sits a touch apart from the fruit at the moment, though this should come together in the next year or so. The acidity is persistent yet unobtrusive, while the length of finish is very good. A quality Roussanne that requires a couple of years in the cellar before it drinks at its best. 90+pts
ABV: 13%
RRP: $35

2012 Yelland and Papps Second Take Roussanne
Brown: Yelland and Papps have taken a small batch of Roussanne intended for their Devote range and given it the ‘Second Take’ treatment – wild yeast ferment and lees stirred in barrel with 10% new French oak and then bottled unfiltered.
Firstly, there is no point serving this blind with its Devote partner in Roussanne crime to try and guess which one is which – the cloudy, freshly squeezed apple juice colour and look gives the game away. On the nose, the freshly cut apple, pear and spice, matched with subtle supporting oak are an appealing combination. Lemon pith and citrus fruit on the palate combined with a round, slippery texture adds to the overall appeal.
This is a yeasty, slightly funky wine, yet approachable and moreish. Served cold, it would be perfect in the warmer months in Sydney (or right now, given the lovely sunny autumn weather). The type of wine you want several glasses of. 92+pts

Red: In contrast to the Devote, the Second Take is great drinking now, and while it may age well, there’s certainly no vinicide in opening a bottle today. It’s a cloudy wine, though that shouldn’t stop anyone drinking it, as I think there’s enjoyment here for everyone from the everyday drinker right through to the “full cloud” wine geek. It opens with an expressive and appealing nose of apples, with hints of citrus and pear. In the drinking of this wine there is lovely fruit intensity as those flavours of apple and citrus flowing through onto the palate. More than that though there is genuine complexity here, and a great sense of texture. Yeastiness, spice, some bitter pith, lovely acidity, and a kind of graininess all contribute to this. Much drinking enjoyment here and a real point of difference. A great addition to the Yelland & Papps stable. 92pts 
ABV: 13%

Brown: In summary, bravo to Yelland and Papps for their new ‘Second Take’ range of wines. ‘New world wine in an old world way’ is the mantra, and for many punters out there it is one that will resonate in the minds and on the palate. Love the labelling and the general vibe of this series of wines. The Second Take Roussanne is arguably natural wine without any of the hyperbole or vitriol. When you also consider the Devote Roussanne, as well as the positive impact of the Roussanne in their Devote Shiraz Roussanne (review not yet posted) it reveals that Yelland and Papps are onto a good thing with this variety.

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