Wednesday, August 18, 2010

2009 Penfolds Bin 23 Pinot Noir

I have been meaning to try this new entry in the Penfolds Range for a while, and purchased it on a whim.

The colour is off-putting. I know colour can mean little and may even be a psychological barrier to enjoying some wines, but for a Pinot Noir this baby is dark – rich Grenache / ‘Syrah’- style dark.
It smells like cinnamon sprinkled on cherries with a bit of added vanilla from the oak. In the mouth the cherries are once again apparent (considerably so), as are the tannins (which are firm and robust).There is a sour edge to the cherry fruit, and the finish is quite savoury and stalky, though not in a raw and unpleasant way.
This wine does not scream out as being varietal, though it has enough tannin and fruit in balance to suggest it will develop if you give it time. Not sure it will please many of the Pinot Noir devotees out there, though it is a solid first effort from Penfolds, provided you ignore the RRP.
However, on that note, at $40 a bottle there are numerous examples of Australian and New Zealand Pinot Noir that are far superior – from a value for money perspective and an overall quality perspective. Still, as a ‘Bin’ wine, Penfolds are aiming high, and it will be interesting to see how this evolves in style in future vintages.

RRP: $40
ABV: 13.9%

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