2013 Bremerton Malbec

The 2013 Bremerton Malbec is of several single varietal wines sold mainly at their cellar door with a limited retail release.

On the nose and palate, use of Hungarian oak infuses some aniseed spice into a nice mix of blackberry, mulberry and black plum. There is a flavour burst from front to mid palate, dropping off a little, though finishing with ripe and pleasantly tart tannin, and a lingering hint of 5-spice and mixed black fruit.

A spicy, reasonably restrained interpretation of Australian Malbec. Intriguing wine. 

Price: $24

ABV: 14.5%

Rating: 92
Website: www.bremerton.com.au

2010 Yelland and Papps Divine Shiraz

A typically seductive, ripe, full bodied wine in the Divine range by Yelland and Papps,  smelling and tasting of plush, juicy blackberry, black plum fruit, supported by good quality sweet cedary oak. With air, liquorice and mixed spice open up on the nose.

At 14% abv it has some alcohol heat, though fully in step with the powerful fruit across the palate. A real crowd pleasing wine from a great Barossa Valley vintage. Drink now or cellar 10+ years.

Rating: 95+
ABV: 14%
RRP: $75
Website: http://www.yellandandpapps.com/

2010 Yelland and Papps Divine Grenache

From an impressive Barossa Valley vintage comes a powerful and flavoursome wine made from Grenache north of Greenock, planted in the 19^th century. The Divine range are premium wines produced by Yelland and Papps. Made in a familiar and consistent style, they tend to be fully flavoured yet built to last.
 

Tasting Note:

Juicy, round red and black cherry, mixed black fruit merged neatly with Christmas cake spices. Primary fruit at the front and middle especially.  Finishes with elegant power, no overt confection.  Luscious, approachable and moreish, though kept together thanks to its impressive structure.

Makes a bold impression with a fruit intensity and  rich oak treatment that will please many.

I would probably drink this now, given the few years in the bottle and the luscious fruit on offer, though it would cruise through cellaring for 10 years.

RRP: $75
ABV: 14.5%
Score: 94+ pts
Website: www.yellandandpapps.com

RedtoBrown #Orangegate EXCLUSIVE: Port Adelaide Power to consider lobbying government to rename the beverage ‘wine’*

Adelaide Friday 23 May: Having succeeded in convincing the Australian government to change the name of the fortified wine Port (with Wine Australia renaming it ‘Tawny’ in 2006), AFL football club, Port Adelaide Power are pressing ahead with moves to change the name of the alcoholic beverage ‘wine’ to something else in order to avoid confusion with star player Ollie Wines.

The move by Port Adelaide comes at the same time the New South Wales wine growing region of Orange is attempting to regulate skin contact wine being referred-to as ‘orange’ to avoid similar confusion
among consumers and retailers. - Link: Here

Port Adelaide President David Koch hit the media circuit yesterday calling for wine to be renamed, and has even met with members of parliament to argue his case. “Ollie Wines is one of our best players, and market research is showing that the beverage wine is hurting his cut-through in the market – neutral fans we are trying to attract keep getting wine confused with Ollie Wines. Given his already massive profile, it seems an obvious move to either rename the drink or put strict caveats on the use of the term ‘wine’ when selling it at shops." 

The controversy over the Ollie Wines/Wine confusion has prompted Wine Australia to issue a clarification on the use of the term ‘wine’ when referring to wine. Henry Wilson, General Manager, Regulatory Services noted the following on the Wine Australia website:

“The word “wine” can signify many things; an alcoholic beverage, a star Australian Rules Football Player, something an interest group or region may think is important to their bottom line and want protected/denied to other people using the term legitimately. But when used to describe the alcoholic beverage known as wine, it could be an offence under both the Wine Australia Corporation Act and the Sports Trademark Act to refer to it as wine without providing a clear indication the product is not in fact Ollie Wines, the AFL football player, or a product derived from that player.”

Wine commentators and wine producers have been busily digesting the new clarification on the use of the word ‘wine’, and were considering alternatives to avoid further confusion with the Port Adelaide Football Club. Shortlisted alternatives were “Tomayne, Apalleraya, and Jungle juice”.

Confusion: Is this wine or Ollie Wines? 

Wine makers and producers are on notice to consider changing their labels to fully differentiate between the various uses of the term ‘wine’, and Wine Australia has encouraged the Australian Wine industry to be proactive and suggest alternative words to describe their product in anticipation of the Port Adelaide proposals succeeding in Australian and the European Union parliaments.

Hands off Ollie! - PAFC President David Koch adamant
that 3000 years of wine making history will not dilute Ollie Wines' brand image

*Satire, views expressed are personal satirical opinions, etc.  PAFC have nothing to do with any wine related issues, other than encouraging Ollie Wines to help win the AFL Premiership in 2014 and beyond.

2011 Yelland and Papps Devote Old Vine Grenache

It was 2009 when Red and I visited the Barossa Valley and did a tasting of Yelland and Papps wines in Susan and Michael Papp's dining room (prior to their cellar door opening). From those relatively early years for the winery to the present day, they have expanded their range considerably across three clear price points, all of comparatively high quality.

Despite there being several difficult vintages in the last 5 years, Yelland and Papps have managed to produce good to very good wines in small volume, regardless -or in spite- of vintage.

In contrast to the difficult, mostly heat affected Barossa vintages in recent memory (2003, 2007, 2008), 2011 wet, wet, wet – one of the wettest in decades.  As such, it presented winemakers with a range of different challenges. This has come out in the wines I have tried from this vintage across most regions in Australia. However, 2011 has also presented winemakers with the opportunity to make good wines of a different character to the standard, 'typical vintage' style.

With all of this in mind, I was interested to try one of Yelland and Papps' strongest wines - the Old Vine Grenache. This has been a consistently reliable wine over several years, and once again, it holds its head up in this tricky vintage, adding a stylistic twist.

Tasting Note:

Stalky, herbal nose pinot colour, initially some new leather and varnish, and with air, considerable white pepper.

On opening, medium bodied and savoury. Softening red cherry and raspberry fruit, mixed spice, pleasant herbaceous notes.

Lighter bodied and less intense fruit than in the past, not as primary or rounded, and more restrained with a sharper acidity that adds a bit of zing.  Spicy and peppery to the last.

Another good result from a difficult vintage for Yelland and Papps, and a definite ‘point of difference’ wine based on the several vintages of Devote Old Vine Grenache tasted previously.

ABV:  14.0%

RRP: $35

Score: 90pts

Website: www.yellandandpapps.com

Face Off: 2012 Yelland and Papps Devote Roussanne and Second Take Roussanne

''From Yelland and Papps comes two different takes on 2012 Barossa Valley Roussanne:  The Devote and the Second Take. Three weeks ago, RedtoBrown put both bottles through their paces in a good old ‘Face-Off:’

2012 Yelland and Papps Devote Roussanne

Brown: Fruit taken from 10 year old vines, barrel fermented, matured in French oak (22% new) and racked from barrel.

A nose with subtle, understated aromas of apple and citrus with an oak-derived nuttiness. Texturally quite creamy and nutty - a sprinkle of cashew and almonds.

Relatively restrained fruit (white nectarine, citrus and a touch of pear) is framed by subtly spiced nougat oak.  The finish includes pleasant lemon-pith notes, more spice and clean acidity.

Should flesh out with age, and has a solid frame for when the wine develops further in the cellar. Versatile food wine – with rich seafood, or chicken cooked several ways. 91pts

Red: This is currently quite an austere, dry white wine that would go well with some fresh seafood. There is some intensity to the citrus fruit and a touch of creaminess, but apart from that, this Roussanne is keeping everything close to its chest at the moment. The structure, however, is undoubtedly there.   The oak spice sits a touch apart from the fruit at the moment, though this should come together in the next year or so. The acidity is persistent yet unobtrusive, while the length of finish is very good. A quality Roussanne that requires a couple of years in the cellar before it drinks at its best. 90+pts

ABV: 13%

RRP: $35

 

2012 Yelland and Papps Second Take Roussanne

Brown: Yelland and Papps have taken a small batch of Roussanne intended for their Devote range and given it the ‘Second Take’ treatment – wild yeast ferment and lees stirred in barrel with 10% new French oak and then bottled unfiltered.

Firstly, there is no point serving this blind with its Devote partner in Roussanne crime to try and guess which one is which – the cloudy, freshly squeezed apple juice colour and look gives the game away. On the nose, the freshly cut apple, pear and spice, matched with subtle supporting oak are an appealing combination. Lemon pith and citrus fruit on the palate combined with a round, slippery texture adds to the overall appeal.

This is a yeasty, slightly funky wine, yet approachable and moreish. Served cold, it would be perfect in the warmer months in Sydney (or right now, given the lovely sunny autumn weather). The type of wine you want several glasses of. 92+pts

Red: In contrast to the Devote, the Second Take is great drinking now, and while it may age well, there’s certainly no vinicide in opening a bottle today. It’s a cloudy wine, though that shouldn’t stop anyone drinking it, as I think there’s enjoyment here for everyone from the everyday drinker right through to the “full cloud” wine geek. It opens with an expressive and appealing nose of apples, with hints of citrus and pear. In the drinking of this wine there is lovely fruit intensity as those flavours of apple and citrus flowing through onto the palate. More than that though there is genuine complexity here, and a great sense of texture. Yeastiness, spice, some bitter pith, lovely acidity, and a kind of graininess all contribute to this. Much drinking enjoyment here and a real point of difference. A great addition to the Yelland & Papps stable. 92pts 

ABV: 13%

RRP:$40

Brown: In summary, bravo to Yelland and Papps for their new ‘Second Take’ range of wines. ‘New world wine in an old world way’ is the mantra, and for many punters out there it is one that will resonate in the minds and on the palate. Love the labelling and the general vibe of this series of wines. The Second Take Roussanne is arguably natural wine without any of the hyperbole or vitriol. When you also consider the Devote Roussanne, as well as the positive impact of the Roussanne in their Devote Shiraz Roussanne (review not yet posted) it reveals that Yelland and Papps are onto a good thing with this variety.

Website: http://www.yellandandpapps.com/

2010 Henschke Johann's Garden Grenache Mourvedre Shiraz

Henschke - a classy, historic winery. I don’t try or buy as many of their wines as I would like.

The Johann’s Garden, Henschke’s Grenache, Mourvedre, Shiraz blend,  opens with a nose of fresh Black and red fruit, largely raspberry and black cherry.  Similar juicy, vibrant fruit continues on the palate, supported by some mixed spice and low key, ripe tannin. Finishes with a meaty, herbal, Mourvedre-charged edge. Surprisingly savoury on the finish and mellows-out with air yet the savouriness becomes more pronounced.
I like the fact this is blended with 66% Grenache, 26% Mourvedre and 8% Shiraz: I tend to prefer Australian GMS/GSM blends that have a backbone of Grenache, a capable 2IC of Mourvedre and a cameo support of a small amount of Shiraz. There are too many GMSs out there that have marginally more Grenache than the other two varieties (or a 33-33-33 ratio), and the end result suffers, or the wine becomes a vehicle to move on the lesser shiraz in a given vintage. Not a problem with the Johann’s Garden.

There are plenty of GMS/GSM blends available in Australia, and this is arguably priced a bit high given the competition. However, the quality is up there and it should please many.

91pts

ABV: 14.5%
RRP: $37-45+
Website: http://henschke.com.au/

Annie's Lane Copper Trail Shiraz Clare Valley 2002

One of many large labels that has taken an image and price hit in the last decade, Annie’s Lane red wines can be found in the large retail stores for under $15 these days. Regardless of this somewhat sad decline (in price point at least), the 2002 Coppertrail Shiraz is from a great vintage in South Australia, and a relatively strong era for the winery (or at least an era before the rapid, relative decline).

Out of the bottle, and after 10 years maturation the wine has a powerful nose of sweet vanilla and cedar oak, and some porty black cherry and blueberry fruit.  

The wine is full bodied and follows through from the nose with sweet blackberry, some dark plum, dark bitter chocolate and soft ripe tannins. There is a hint of bitterness on the finish, potentially showing some over and under ripe characteristics, though I would have liked to see the wine after more of a decant. Overall, a ripe and fruit-driven wine with powerful oak very much of the era. Will age further, most probably for another 5 years.

Rating: 91 Points

RRP: $40-50

ABV: 15%

2011 Yelland and Papps Vin De Soif (Grenache Mataro Shiraz Carignan)

The new vintage release of the entry-level Yelland and Papps ‘Delight’ range see’s the bottles kitted out in a new, contemporary label that fits snugly with the spirit of the Delight wines.

The Vin De Soif, a new addition to the range, leaps out of the blocks with a surprisingly fragrant, spicy nose of cloves, dried green herbs and salted liquorice. On the palate, the wine is a bit more mellowed; relaxed but generous. Medium bodied with juicy blackberry, dark cherry and raspberry fruits flavours, herbaceous and meaty on the mid and back palate, finishing with soft, drying tannin.
The 14.5% abv does not stand out or throw-out the balance of the wine.
‘Vin de Soif’ can be broadly translated into English as ‘thirst quenching wine’, and as such, this wine is aptly named. You could easily serve it slightly chilled in summer or more conventionally alongside Mediterranean food in the cooler months. Moreish and approachable,  I found it a good value wine to enjoy here and now, saving the contemplation for conversations at the end of the night.

Rating: 89 pts

RRP: $19.95
ABV: 14.5%
Winery Website: www.yellandandpapps.com

Yelland and Papps Devote Greenock Shiraz 2010

The 2010 Yelland and Papps Devote Greenock Shiraz was made using grapes from a single site in the northern Greenock sub-region of the Barossa Valley. Inky purple in colour and with a fruitcake spice and black fruit nose, the wine has impressive, silky blackberry, spicy dark plumb fruit flavours flowing through from the front to back palate, some milk chocolate and chinotto flavours on the finish and pliant, ripe tannins.

The fruit flavours are powerful and sweet, though balanced with the sensitive (and relatively understated) use of new and old American and French oak. This is not a subtle wine, more seductive and overt than demure and suggestive. However, the result is not confected or overwhelming, just enjoyable and moreish.

After three days on the tasting bench, the wine didn’t budge much, other than for the tannins to assert themselves some more and the sultry fruit cake spice.

This is another example of Yelland and Papp’s enjoyable, fruity and flavoursome Devote range, and from a very good vintage – it has enough restraint, expensive oak treatment and structure to suggest it will age nicely in the cellar, yet will please a majority of wine drinkers right now – a ‘win-win’ approach.

Rating: 93pts

RRP: $32
ABV: 14.5%
Website:
Source: Sample

2006 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz

Coming from my second favourite South Australian red wine vintage of the decade, the 2006 Bin 389 was a well-regarded wine on release. I have read some recent reviews stating it is looking a bit big and bold, so I was interested to see how the wine had developed in the bottle:

Sweet cedar and vanilla oak on the nose with considerable sweet, dark spices /all spice: seductive, perfumed, and heady.

On the palate,  a nice mix of powerful sweet, dark fruits: considerable blackberry, blackcurrents, cassis and aniseed. Initially, the tannins are robust, though softened somewhat with more air. The wine finishes with nice length, sweet with traces of oaky milk chocolate and spiced mocha.

At this stage of its development, a powerful, sweet and seductive wine. It may not please the purists, cool climate cognoscenti or the sultans of subtle, but it will seduce or at least satisfy a majority of Australian red wine drinkers. Interested to see how it ages, given the oodles of nice fruit and oak on display.

Rating: 95pts

RRP: $55-65

ABV: 14.5%
Website: http://www.penfolds.com/

Yelland and Papps 2009 Divine Mataro (Sample)

RedtoBrown’s first exposure to the Yelland and Papps Divine range of premium wines was the 2008 Divine Shiraz - an ambitious wine and a very good result given the vintage. The 2009 Divine range has been expanded with a Grenache and Mataro joining the Shiraz.

The 2009 Divine Mataro is a dark, brooding, yet at the same time, smooth, opulent and seductive wine. It is made from hand-picked old bush vine fruit that was yielding fruit in the 1880s. On the nose, black tarry fruit does a slow dance with turned earth and complex spice. The palate has layers of blood plumb, blackberry, earth, tar and liquorice, with a chocolate / mocha seam that runs from beginning to end. The tannins are fine while still being robust,  the old French oak a subtle support player. adding structure. It finishes with a dark earthiness without excess alcohol heat or tannin.

If I were not tasting (as opposed to drinking) this wine, it would not have lasted the day – such is its lure. However, as we trend to do with the red wine samples, I came back to this wine over several days. On days two and three, the fruit became a bit more prominent, and on day five, the tannins had retreated further, yet the structure and poise remained. To sum it up, it did not fall over by the time the bottle was finished. The wine was drinking well after 5 days, fruity, savoury and structured, suggesting it will age superbly. So convinced with this, I put my money where my mouth is – a bottle of this is now in the cellar and will not be coming out for a long time.

Yelland and Papps have made a truly impressive wine here. It is great to see Australian wineries in multiple regions releasing increasing numbers of wines in this mould: hand-picked, carefully sourced and sensitively crafted, wines that have a personal touch and that speak of place. It is becoming clichéd to say this type of thing, though the quality of the Yelland and Papps Divine Mataro justifies it.

Rating – 96 pts
R.R.P - $100

ABV  14.8
Closure - Screwcap
Website - http://yellandandpapps.com/

BROWN (RB)

2009 Sons of Eden Kennedy Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre

I have to be upfront and admit that I have a vested interest in this wine – I tasted the old vine Grenache and Mourvedre that went into the Kennedy GSM when it was maturing in the barrel in Spring 2009, and from that point on was looking forward to trying the finished product.  That trip to the Barossa Valley involved us visiting several wineries, including Sons of Eden. The warm hospitality from people like SoE viticulturist Simon Cowham helped motivate me to develop this blog (co-opting ‘Red’ in the process). However, fond memories do not a good wine make, so on to the 2009 Kennedy GSM:

Based on the wines tasted to this point, 2009 was a surprisingly good, if low yielding, vintage for Grenache in the Barossa Valley. To back this view up, the 50+yr old vine Grenache and Mataro are the winners in this wine. They add a nice mix of juicy, spicy black cherry, raspberry and blackcurrant flavours, with the 40% of Shiraz providing some chocolate, black fruit support without dominating. There is a nice, earthy smooth tannic kick at the finish, combined with more lingering, clove, allspice and red fruit flavours.

There is a nice, voluptuous harmony to this wine – sweet fruited without being stewed or overdone. The Kennedy is listed at 14.5% abv, and could well be higher, but it is not overly noticeable.

The Kennedy is a moreish and approachable wine that will please many. A wine to be enjoyed, not contemplated. It is drinking nicely now and will do so for a few more years. As with other juicy GSMs, this wine can be served at below room temperature to maximise the fresh Grenache fruit in the wine, or served at room temperature in the middle of winter for some cold weather comfort!


Rating: 90pts
RRP: $22
ABV: 14.5%
Website http://www.sonsofeden.com/

Teusner 2010 'The Gentleman' Eden Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Teusner’s ‘The Gentleman’ Cabernet Sauvignon appears to be the Cabernet sister to the Riebke Shiraz – same price point, similar labelling, but also similar bang for your buck? Let’s take a look:

Subtle liquorice/ aniseed, molasses, allspice and largely black fruits on the nose,.  Ripe black fruit on the palate, initial cola flavours, yet finishes with a savoury herbal/dark chocolate note, a degree of alcohol heat and pleasantly surprising length. The tannins are ripe and soft, medium to full bodied and a nice intensity and a silky mouthfeel.  
(Almost predictably), at around $18-22 per bottle, this is another promising, good value release from Teusner, alongside the excellent ‘The Independent’ Shiraz Mataro and Riebke Shiraz ranges.  They are a winery on top of its game from a wine making and wine marketing perspective.

Rating – 90points / 3.5 Stars
ABV – 14.5%
RRP: $18-22
Website: http://www.teusner.com.au/

1998 Richmond Grove Watervale Riesling (Clare Valley) - Cellar Release

This wine is as good an advertisement for screwcaps as I’ve tasted.

James Halliday’s review of the wine back in 1998 gave the wine a score of 90 points and a drinking window until 2008. He described it as a “classic in the making which is quite certain to achieve significantly higher points when mature”. I’m not sure it has quite reached classic status, but time has indeed been good to this wine and its travelled well beyond 2008.

I tasted this at Glass in the Hilton Hotel in Sydney. I rarely care about the colour of a wine, but this Riesling had a beautiful bright golden hue. The nose was appealing, yet reasonably restrained with some toasty marmalade like notes, and just a whiff of petrol. On the palate the first thing that struck me was the vibrant acidity. It defines the wine beautifully. This acidity is balanced by developed, toasty, citrus flavours along with a touch of honey. Lovely drinking. The balance and structure of the wine suggests it could go on for another 5 years at least, though as it’s not a Riesling of amazing complexity I think it’s probably drinking at its mature peak now.

The thing that excites me is that this is typically a safe and sound Riesling that can be picked up for under $20 upon release, and hasn’t typically had any claims to greatness. And yet under screwcap it is showing beautifully at 13 years of age. What this means for many of the more premium Rieslings that have been under screwcap since the early to mid noughties will undoubtedly be a joy to uncover in the coming decade.

Rated:


RRP: $45
ABV: 12.5%
Website: www.richmondgrovewine.com


Red

2007 Mollydooker Two Left Feet Shiraz Cabernet Merlot

Edit: After reading a set of reviews posted by Andrew Graham on his Australian Wine Review blog (see the reviews and comments HERE), I did a quick browse of my own scores for certain wines. Looking at this review, it is painfully obvious that I over-rated it. At RedtoBrown, we have tended to post reviews of wines we rate above 85. For me personally, I do not want to spend my (increasingly limited) spare blogging time savaging a wine when I can praise, or critically asses a much more interesting, challenging wine (or try and produce some wine satire that invariably misses the mark, while drinking an interesting wine :-) ).

Nevertheless, I have written up notes on a few wines that I did not enjoy, partially to discuss the style of wine in question or query the judgement of the winery/corporation in releasing certain wines (see the Rosemount Botannicals post  (LINK) for arguably my most strident, negative review).

I did not enjoy this wine. It did not grow on me. It is made in a style I am not a fan of (a style foreign wine drinkers and critics think of when discussing Australian red wines). Looking back on the tasting notes, and my thoughts on the 2 bottles I tried 6 months apart, a rating of 86 points/3 stars is wildly inaccurate, and has to be addressed. The new, more accurate (in my view) score is below. Apologies for the flip flop; I do not have the time or desire to re-taste some wines I have my doubts on (and largely, I am happy with the calls made on most of the wine notes posted), but this one had to be addressed.

PS - thanks to Andrew Graham for leading the way in posting notes that are an honest view of what ones palate is telling them and not a complex calculation of fashion, wine trends, expectation and cliches.


I will have to come out first by stating that as an Australian, I had never heard of the slang term ‘mollydooker’ being used to describe left handed people until the winery of the same name stormed onto the scene in a rush of Parker points around 2005. If forced to offer up an Australian slang term for a left hander, ‘cackhanded’ would be my pick. Though not a national or personal emergency if it happened, the winery may be partly responsible for convincing Americans that we walk around our outback towns calling left handed people mollydookers.

In much the same way, Parkerised wines like the Mollydooker Two Left Feet have for some time been convincing Americans that Australia makes two styles of wine – the very cheap critter variety (Yellowtail, Koala Blue, random labels most Aussies will have never heard of) and the 90+ pointed Robert Parker blockbuster fruit bombs. Unlike the use or misuse of Australian slang, this perception, whether true or imagined, is definitely not the reality, and is not healthy for the Australian wine industry.

To set the scene, the wine being reviewed, the Two Left Feet is black-purple in colour. Following a ‘Mollydooker shake’ as instructed, its sweet nose of liqueur black fruit and tobacco enmeshes with spirity, pure alcohol fumes. There are porty black fruit flavours on the front palate, leading to bitter dark chocolate (both from heavy oak and fruit) on the middle and back palate, finishing in a crescendo of more bitter dark chocolate, porty black and some blue fruit, salty hard liquorice and a hit of powerful alcohol heat. The wine is not structurally out of control, though the alcohol is out of balance with everything else.

On day two, with ample time in the decanter, the flavour profile had not budged – if anything, the alcohol was more prominent. 2007 was a difficult vintage in the McLaren Vale, which would explain the harsh, bitter tannins evident (quite common in many of the MV Shiraz and Cabernet I have tried from that vintage), and might also explain the very high alcohol level that dominates the wine. However, this wine has obviously been made in a certain style regardless of vintage conditions, and it shows in the glass.

On reflection, the 07 Mollydooker Two Left Feet fits the pantomime villain description you see in wine forums criticising the style of Australian wines highly rated by Robert Parker and Wine Advocate. Unlike some of the Australian wines Parker rates highly, this wine conforms to many of the stereotypes: high alcohol clearly evident (16%abv, but more like 18%), porty, liqueur black fruit, difficult if not impossible to match with any food and too much to drink by itself (or to have more than one glass in one sitting). Yet this style of wine still sells in America, albeit in reduced quantities and for reduced prices.

However, there is hope. The way Australian Chardonnay has evolved since the ‘Sunshine in a glass / Dolly Parton’ era shows that the style of wine being made by wineries previously blessed with ‘Parker points’ could evolve in time, turning down the alcohol levels by several degrees, selecting fruit that is less over-ripe, and reining in the use of new (mostly American) oak.

Furthermore, the introduction of Lisa Perrotti Brown as the Asian/Australian rep for Wine Advocate (and noting her relatively high scores given to some Hunter Valley Reds early last year) suggests that such a move may actually be rewarded and not punished by Wine Advocate in the future.

Whether the aforementioned hope is realised, and whether wines made in the style of the Two Left Feet evolve accordingly remains to be seen. However, in light of the milieu the Australian wine industry finds itself in, it would be of assistance if this was the case.

Rating:
77 points (formerly 3 stars, 86 points)

ABV:16%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.mollydookerwines.com.au/

2009 Yelland & Papps Delight Shiraz Grenache (Barossa Valley, Sample)

This is an enjoyable, fruit-driven wine that would go very well as a quaffer over this summer. The thing to note though is that it is a wine on the sweeter side of things. It is in no way confected or forced, but fruit sweetness is evident. The nose smells of freshly crushed berries, and is very appealing. On to the palate it provides lovely, smooth drinking. There's a nice line and length of flavour with berries, sasparilla, chocolate and spice. Fine tannins are in support. Normally I like a bit more of a savoury aspect to my wine, but this nevertheless provided plenty of enjoyment, which is the primary aim of the Delight range, and a recurring feature of many Yelland and Papps wines. 3.5 stars.

Rated:



RRP: $19
Website: http://yellandandpapps.com/


Red

2010 Kalleske Clarry’s (Grenache Shiraz Mataro, Barossa Valley)

2010 is shaping up as a great vintage for some regions that have had it pretty tough of late in terms of vintages such as the Yarra, Heathcote, and the Barossa. This is the first red wine I’ve had from 2010 in the Barossa and it bodes very well for other offerings from Kalleske as well as wineries more generally in the region.

It’s similar to the 2009 in many ways, but the main difference is that it’s a step up in quality and enjoyment (and I liked the 09). It has a lovely perfumed, floral nose with an interesting touch of smokiness. The highlight for me of this wine, however, is its intensity and drive. An intensity and drive that made me sit back and take notice, especially when you are thinking you’re just going to be drinking a pleasant, early drinking GSM. Flavours of berries, spice, and liquorice course with a sense of purpose through the mid palate before delivering a long, earthy finish. Fine, yet grippy tannins provide a satisfying chewiness at the end.

The fruit and structure of the wine certainly point towards ageworthiness, though to be honest it’s so enjoyable now that I’d be drinking it over the next couple of years. With an $18 RRP, and as something that can be picked up even cheaper, it’s a no-brainer of a purchase. Most importantly of all it received the seal of approval from the Missus. 4 Stars.


Rated:


RRP: $18
ABV: 14.5%
Website: http://www.kalleske.com/




Red

2009 Kalleske Clarry's Red - Grenache Shiraz Mataro (Barossa Valley)

Similar to many of the old vines they tend, the Kalleske family have deep roots in the Barossa. They have been growing grapes in the Greenock sub-region of the Barossa since 1853. Current grape growers and winemakers, Troy and Tony Kalleske, are the 7th generation of Kalleskes to tend their vineyards, but the 1st generation to retain Estate fruit for wine under the "Kalleske" label, as opposed to selling it off to other winemakers. Brown and I visited the winery last year, and it was a highlight amongst a week of many great experiences.

This GSM (Grenache Shiraz Mataro) is aged entirely in old oak and provides interest and complexity in a drink-now style.

It has a lovely floral nose along with red fruits and spice. When drinking it goes down very easily, perhaps dangerously so, but interest and the desire to savour the wine slowly is maintained by a nice balance between sweet and savoury flavours. It has a core of lovely rich fruit, along with aniseed and dried herbs. Good length, very good drinking, and could even be better in a couple of years time.

Rated:
+

RRP: $18
ABV: 14.5%
Website: www.kalleske.com


Red

2009 Teusner "The Dog Strangler" Mataro

A bit of a Mataro focus for me at the moment.

This is the kind of wine that provides a lot of immediate drinking pleasure, and yet is also interesting enough to be a wine to enjoy contemplating. Lovely, complex spice is its calling card.
It smells of ripe berries, chocolate, violets, and five spice along with just a touch of meatiness. On the palate it’s mouth filling in its ripe fruit, with intensity provided by exotic spice. This is underpinned by a clean acidity and lovely earthiness. It finishes nice and savoury. A tiny bit of heat on the finish, but it didn’t prevent me from loving drinking this wine. Another notch on the belt for Barossa Mataro . . .

Rated:



RRP: $25
ABV: 14.5%
Website: www.teusner.com.au


Red