2003 Tyrrell's Vat 1 Semillon (Hunter Valley)

This is not one of the truly great Vat 1’s, but it registers very high on the scale of drinkability and joy.

As a wine it is in its transition phase, with plenty of primary fruit still in the offing, but development on display as well. There’s a prominent and cleansing acidity that marks the wine out and will ensure long life, while a growing roundness of fruit and flavour balances this nicely. Lovely citrus, a hint of vanilla, with some toasty, honey notes in there too. It perhaps lacks the intensity and length of a great Vat 1, but it is so enjoyable to drink you don’t really care. Sydney rock oysters were a great match.

Rated: 4 Stars
ABV: 10.9%
Closure: Cork
Drink: 2014-2019+
Website: www.tyrrells.com.au


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2012 Scarborough Green Label Semillon

If asked to describe the Scarborough winery to friends, two things spring to mind: they provide one of the best cellar door experiences in the Hunter Valley and have a range of wines with clear intent and purpose.  

In regards to the latter comment, Scarborough has two semillons in their range that offer a clear point of difference. The Green Label Semillon is Scarborough’s early drinking, approachable take on the variety, with the pricier White Label being more austere-when-young and cellar-worthy.

The Green Label Semillon has a ripe nose of lemon, with crunchy granny smith apple, passionfruit, apple blossom and a hint of green pear. On the palate the wine has refreshing acidity that cleanses, is not sharp or harsh and has generous lemon/lemon pith flavours at the back. The finish is clean and dry.

The Green Label is arguably ripe in the context of young Hunter Semillon while not trying to be something the variety is not– a positive example of a ‘drink now’ white wine that is approachable with broad appeal, yet does not have to imitate the hegemonic Sauvignon Blanc style.

This would match nicely with seafood, poached chicken or even pork fillet in the approaching spring months.

Rating: 90pts

ABV: 11.2%

RRP: $20

Website: www.scarboroughwine.com.au

2011 Drayton's Heritage Vines Semillon (Hunter Valley)

The thing that is appealing about a number of these Heritage Vines range of wines from Drayton's is their Hunteriness (for want of a better word). From their estate vineyard planted in the 1890s.

An appealing nose of citrus, hints of honey, and an interesting reductive tennis ball aroma. To drink there’s some nice fruit up front with an early bit of spritz , but it’s ultimately very dry, and a touch austere at this stage. There’s complexity here with some nuttiness and a minerality that emerges with time. It finishes with an assured length. The pricing is arguably ambitious for a Semillon, but there’s no doubting the quality or its uniqueness. Needs some time in the cellar.

Rated:

RRP: $60

ABV: 10.5%

Closure: Screwcap

Drink: 2015-2025

Website: www.draytonswines.com.au

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2010 De Iuliis Sunshine Vineyard Semillon (Hunter Valley)

Well this is the fourth 4 Star white wine I’ve reviewed in a row. I’m not sure if there is anything significant about this, other than the fact I’m drinking some fantastic white wine at the moment.

The thing that marks this Semillon out from its peers is a funky soy sauce-like note that is there on both the bouquet and the palate. I’m not sure if its vineyard or vintage related, but regardless it added plenty of savoury appeal to the wine. That being said it otherwise presents as a classic young Hunter Semillon. Strong citrus flavours, prominent acidity at this early stage, and hints of an earthy minerality, all lend to a wine that can certainly be enjoyed in its youth with seafood. It also has lovely balance and proportion, and excellent length. Drinking it over a few days you get a nice sense of the weight and texture this wine will build over the next decade.

Whether you’re wanting something to drink now or are looking for something to cellar, you can have your cake and eat it to with this little number.

Rated:


RRP: $25
ABV: 10.6%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.dewine.com.au/


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A few 2011 Hunter Valley Semillons

My aunty, who lives in Canberra, was telling me the other day that she found a 1973 Rothbury Estate Semillon in a corner of her cellar. She reckoned that it was probably the first serious wine that she bought and cellared back in the early 70s. One might expect that in 2011 this wine would be way past it, but having carefully pulled the cork, what she instead found was a beautifully fresh, yet complex Hunter Semillon. It’s amazing to think how long the better, current day Hunter Semillons will cellar under screwcap.

Brown and I have a bunch of Hunter Semillons to review and below is an initial trio -


2011 Pepper Tree Tallawanta Semillon ($28, 11.5% ABV) – I don’t often think of young Hunter Semillon as elegant, but this wine certainly provides that sense. It has a lovely unobtrusive acidity, and some nice texture and grip. Citrus, florals, and with a hint of honey it finishes with impressive length. One for the cellar. 4 Stars

2011 Thomas Braemore Semillon ($28, 11.5% ABV) - I loved the 09 and ’10 vintages of this wine, but not so much this wine. Its length and clean acidity mark it out as being of impressive pedigree, but the tropical fruit profile and some grassiness reminded me a little too much of a Sav Blanc in terms of flavour profile. I tried it again after a couple of days and the tropicals had happily subsided to some extent. Definitely a wine that needs some time to see its best. 3.5 Stars +

2011 Tulloch Semillon ($16, 11.3% ABV) – This might be the lowest scoring of this trio, but it is the most enjoyable to drink now, and perhaps the most easily identifiable as a Hunter Semillon. If you find yourself sitting in front a plate of Sydney Rock oysters this summer or next, crack this open and enjoy. Fresh, crisp, and with prominent acidity, it has lovely ripe citrus flavours and a good length of finish. It might surprise in the longer term but it’s open for business now. Great value. 3.5 Stars


Three quite different wines, and in the broader scheme of things, all very good value. The Tulloch is for now, while the Thomas and Pepper Tree should be popped in the cellar. I’m not sure if either of them will do 38 years like the ’73 Rothbury, but then again, betting against the Braemore or Tallawanta vineyards is a brave thing to do.



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2004 Allandale Semillon (Hunter Valley)

This is a Hunter Semillon that at 7 years of age is drinking beautifully, and will only get better over the next 5 years, and under screwcap, possibly a lot longer.

All the elements of a good young Semillon are still evident with citrus flavours, good acidity, and also a lovely minerality. The elements of an aged Semillon also have really started to emerge with some rich honey and toast notes coming to the fore, giving the wine body and weight. It finishes long with a lovely sense of texture. Textbook Hunter Semillon. Loved it.

Rated:
+

RRP: $30
ABV: 11.5%
Website: http://www.allandalewinery.com.au/


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