Face-Off: 2011 Pardas Rupestris (Penedes, Spain)

Red: The second of the Pardas wines from the Penedes region in Spain that Brown and I conducted a little Face-Off on.

How’s this for a mouthful of a blend - 70% xarel.lo, 10% xarel.lo vermell, 10% malvasia de sitges, and 10 % macabeu. Indigenous varieties from Penedes in Spain. If you’ve never heard of any of these four varieties you could certainly be forgiven, though Xarel lo and Macabeu are traditionally blending components of Cava, the Spanish sparkling wine. So how do these varieties go as a table wine? Well if the Rupestris is anything to go by then they certainly hold merit.

Opens with a bit of funky pong that largely blows off with a bit of air. Prominent acidity throughout and very dry in style. Nice flavours of citrus and peach are revealed with a bit of time before an appealing flinty/earthy minerality kicks in. Good length. Perfect with fresh seafood. A lovely, textural, dry white wine. 90.

I tried what remained in the bottle a couple of days later and the acidity had become better integrated and touch of honeyed generosity had appeared. Worth holding onto for another a year or two before drinking. 91

Brown: largely neutral nose with air, though if pressed, initially some hydrogen sulphide pong (that blew off a few minutes after opening), pork crackling and very subtle lemon florals.

Understated citrus fruit, unripe white nectarine, and lemon. Taut acidity at the front and back palate. The fruit and mouthfeel fleshes out a bit in the mid palate, and finishes taut, dry and clean.

Interesting, rather austere wine with clean acidity though nice mid-palate texture that would complement a range of seafood options and even poached chicken. 89-90pts + (bonus for its uniqueness and versatility with food)

RRP: Not sure but the LUC is $18
Closure: Cork
ABV: 12.5%
Importer: www.120ml.com.au
Winery: www.cellerpardas.com

Face-Off: 2009 Pardas Collita Roja (Penedes, Spain)

Red: I’d never heard of Sumoll as a grape variety until I tried this wine. It’s imported by Tony Plowman at 120 ML (www.120ml.com.au), and as a point of disclosure I should note that he is a friend from back in my high school days.

Sumoll is indigenous to the Penedes region near Barcelona, and apparently has been a largely forgotten variety, and indeed has been at risk of becoming extinct. Evidently it makes an unremarkable wine if not treated with due care and love in the vineyard. Based on their range of wines, however, it appears as if Pardas are trying to keep these indigenous varieties alive and show what they’re capable of when given some TLC in the vineyard.

The 2009 Collita Roja is 85% Sumoll, 15% Marselan. Organic vineyard practices, handpicked fruit, aged in French oak, 15% of which is new.

The first noticeable thing is its translucent colour. It looks like a lighter Pinot or Gamay. Then to smell it has an expressive nose of cherry, florals, and some positive oak input. To drink the thing that immediately stands out is the acidity, which is prominent, yet appealing within a light to medium bodied frame. There are some lovely flavours here with bright red fruits, and hints of liquorice, spicy cedar, and then an earthiness that provides a savoury finish. That acidity and earthiness add a distinct sense of texture to the wine. Really enjoyable drinking and certainly a point of difference wine. Should age well too. 92 pts

Brown: Interesting wine. Sexy and intriguing nose of dark cherry and turned earth (oak assisted?). Primarily cherry fruit, with a portion of it laced with liqueur cherry. Some subtle liquorice on the palate. Medium bodied and has the colour and appearance of a new world Pinot Noir. Tannins are subtle. Cleansing acid and pleasant minerality kick-in from the mid palate to the finish. Lovely nose, nice upfront fruit, clean and taut acid finish. Food wine. 90pts+ (+= would go well with a wide range of cuisines).

RRP: Not sure but the LUC is $31

Closure: Cork

ABV: 13.9%
Website: www.cellerpardas.com