I had these wines late last year, then lost my tasting notes, only
to find them again the other day!
I sometimes wonder if the past 5-10 years or so will be
remembered as a mini-golden era for wine lovers in Australia. It has been a
period in which an increasing number of wineries across the country have begun
to produce compelling wines that are unique expressions of site or vineyard.
This has all happened at a time when Australian wines were on the nose as far
as many international critics were concerned, the Australian dollar was incredibly
strong (further weakening export demand), and there was a general glut of
grapes. The result has been a wonderful array of exceptional wine at more than
reasonable prices. As with all cycles, things eventually turn, and in the past
two to three years we have seen a gradual positive changing of opinion amongst
international critics, and there has been some easing in the oversupply of
grapes (while still remaining problematic). Importantly, in the past 12 months we
have also seen the Australian dollar drop substantially, particularly
against the US Dollar. All of which would point to a likely increasing demand
for Australian wine. Some quite remarkable price rises by individual wineries
on their premium wines in the past year or two would seem to be at least in
part an early indication of this.
Which leads me to these Tyrrell’s single vineyard reds. Here
you are indeed getting compelling wines that are unique expressions of their
respective sites. Furthermore, they are scarce (not much made in terms of
production), and they age a treat. Finally they have an amazing history behind
them, being made by a winery established in 1838 and still in family hands, and
sourced from 100 year + old vineyards. While $50 is never a small amount to pay
for a bottle of wine, I would argue that with all these things considered, these wines are
great value at that price. I feel fortunate then to be a part of the Private
Bin club at Tyrrell’s through which you can buy these wines, and have been
stocking up in the past few years.
I believe something in this favourable equation for these special
wines will eventually break. It might be large price rises, a closing of the
Private Bin club to new entrants, or something else. Either way, I struggle to
see how these wines will remain so accessible, given both growing local
awareness and interest, and the turning, even just marginally,
in international demand. If these wines are your type of thing and you’re not a
member you might want to get in before it’s too late.
To the wines at hand -
2013 Tyrrell’s Johnno’s Shiraz – Johnno’s block was planted in 1908 and sits is on
alluvial sandy loam soils.
This is somewhat unyielding at present, only gradually
revealing its true appeal and potential over a few days. It’s light to medium
bodied and very much a “Hunter Burgundy” in style. Lovely cherry fruit meets
regional earthiness, with just a hint of oak at play. Acid driven. One thing
that does stand out at this stage of its life is its great length of finish.
This should largely be left alone for its first 10 years, and then savoured
after that. Rated: 93++ Drink: 2020-2030+
2013 Tyrrell’s Old Patch Shiraz – The ‘Old Patch’ vineyard was planted in 1867,
making it nearly 150 years old, and sits on red clay loams. .
While remaining medium-bodied, there’s a bit more of
everything with the Old Patch as compared to Johnno’s. A bit more joy and
drinkability early in its life. That being said this is just as much a monty
for the cellar as the Johnno’s. A slightly darker, richer fruit profile here,
while remaining in the cherry spectrum. Earthiness and a beautiful cinnamon
note. The tannins are subtle yet firm, and help shape the wine through its long
finish. Rated: 93++ Drink: 2018-2030+Red
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