(Bottles of Helm wine from around the world)
While Shiraz and Shiraz Viognier have been the stars during Canberra’s emergence as a wine region, its Riesling is also very impressive. Ken Helm has been to the forefront of the development of this synergy between variety and region. Helm is one of the Canberra pioneers, having established his vineyard in 1973. Riesling has evidently been his passion since then, and his offerings are arguably the best in the region.
In relative
terms the Classic Dry is the approachable, entry level wine, while Helm’s
Premium Riesling is built to age. In saying that the Classic Dry is no simple quaffer, warranting
plenty of consideration and taking age. The 2006 is a prime example. At 7 years
of age it is right in the groove and drinking beautifully. It’s still fresh and
vibrant, but with age has come some generosity and complexity. Flavours of
citrus and apple blossom are married with some beautiful honeyed notes, all of
which are underpinned by lovely acidity. There’s a minerality akin
to driveway gravel that accompanies the long finish. This will continue to age,
though personally I’d reckon it’s at its peak about now and I’d struggle to
keep my hands off it such is the enjoyment to be had.
Rated:
Drink: 2013-2016
RRP: $25
Closure: Screwcap
Website: www.helmwines.com.au
Red
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