Saturday, February 9, 2013

2010 Marius Shiraz: Symphony & Simpatico (McLaren Vale)

While McLaren Vale shiraz is invariably good, I’ve rarely fallen in love with it or cellared it. I’ve done both however, with the 2010 Symphony and Simpatico wines from Marius. They are superb, cellar worthy Shiraz, with a bit of X-factor. Both are from the pictured 4.5 acre vineyard. The vineyard is notable for its unique gravels that run to a depth of many metres.

There’s not too much difference between the two wines in terms of how they are produced, aside from a few specific rows of fruit that go into the Symphony, which winemaker Roger Pike reckon “scream structure”.  All the parcels of fruit are done in small 1-2 tonne ferments and spend between 15-28 days on skins.

2010 Marius Simpatico Shiraz - $30 – It opens with dark fruits and great intensity, and yet it’s not heavy. With time it reveals blue fruits, and some juiciness, but it is ultimately very savoury, with a lovely tobacco note and a very appealing ironstone-like minerality. Fine but persistent tannins. Needs plenty of time in the cellar to reveal all its wares but nevertheless beautiful to drink now. 4 stars +

2010 Marius Symphony Shiraz - $40 – As good as the Simpatico is, the Symphony is a step up in complexity and persistence. It smells great. Plums, blueberries, florals, and an appealing note of baked earth. To drink it is plush and dense while still retaining plenty of freshness. The wine is framed by the kind of beautiful, cheek puckering tannins that I love in Barolo, and are so rare in Australian red wines. Finishes with great length. Leave it in the cellar for 5 years, and then savour over the next 15. 4.5 Stars.



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